Product Manual - Grey Coverage

When hair stops producing melanin it is what we call grey or white hair. Grey hair can be thicker or finer in diameter and sometimes can be more resistant to cover therefore must be treated differently.


When hair is 50% to 100% white you must use 20 vol (6%) peroxide to soften the cuticle to allow more color molecules to penetrate and deposit into the cortex. If you use 10 vol (3%) you will achieve coverage on the day, but because 10 vol only coats the outside of the hair shaft as your client shampoos their hair the color will fade out quickly as the color molecules have not deposited themselves into the cortex of the hair.


On strong resistant hair when after a natural result you may need to replace more warmth to the color as the hair may drain all the warmth from the color as there is none found naturally in the hair anymore. To counter act from this happening the gold series can be used instead of the natural series to replace the warmth that is no longer found naturally in the hair to give you a natural result with perfect coverage.


Example:
Base 5 or darker (Use 3/4 base + 1/4 5.3)
Base 6 or lighter (Use 3/4 base + 1/4 7.3)


If the hair is 70% to 100% grey and the desired result is a true fashion result use 2/3 of your target reflect and 1/3 of your base shade 1 level darker. This will give you100% coverage with maximum vibrancy.


For resistant, strong, coarse or glassy hair you can increase your peroxide strength up to 30 vol (9%) peroxide to open the cuticle more allowing for better penetration of color into the cortex. You will not achieve any more lift just better color deposition.


To remove the color from the client with minimal staining there is a simple procedure to follow that works effectively. As Organic color is 2 parts oil to 1 part water ratio when water hits the hair it actually locks the color into the skin so the old theory of adding a small amount of water into the color and emulsifying the color to remove staining does NOT apply.


Simply apply shampoo around the hairline without water and emulsify to remove color, wipe the hairline to see if the stain has been removed and if not sufficient continue process until desired result is achieved. Then water may be added to further remove the color then simply shampoo and condition as normal.